12-10-2010, 07:11 AM (This post was last modified: 12-10-2010, 07:14 AM by Serene.)
(12-07-2010, 12:47 AM)NiX Wrote: You guys are getting much better at this.
Thank you. I had lots of practice with my AC.
(12-07-2010, 11:51 AM)Fox Wrote: Thanks, man. Well, we had to get better sooner or later, considering that we've been at this hobby even before RR was founded. At least Serene learned an entirely new skillset, i just learned how to paint more effectively.
Well, now I know what plastic surgeons feel after a successful operation. SF doesn't look gay anymore... 'Ika nga ni Archangel.
Progress update on the Liberta Modifica, which is Latin for "Modified Freedom" (yeah, yeah, Fox, real creative). Anyways, met up with Trace and Serene yesterday and was able to get Trace to help me with masking some of the parts. So yeah, this project is pretty much turning into a real group effort. Here's the internal frame of the kit with most of the armor removed.
"I'm too sexy for my armor, too sexy for armor, so sexy it hurts~!"
Soon-to-be-white armor parts in two thin coats of primer. I think this is gonna be the last time i'll be using Now as a primer for white parts as the end results weren't too satisfactory on this project.
Soon-to-be-blue armor parts in two primer coats.
Armor parts in three light layers of white lacquer.
In order to create a bit of a pre-shadowed effect for the blue and silver parts, a couple coats of flat black were needed at first
Same here.
The internal frame in two coats of steel gray. Oddly enough, even though the can says "steel gray", the paint comes out just glossy, not metallic. False advertising, Bosny!
"I'm too sexy for my armor, too sexy for my armor, too sexy, yeeeaaahhh!"
Armor parts in light blue, the overhead lights in this pic are too strong but you can see hints of black under the blue when in normal lighting.
Kinda forgot to take pics during the masking process of the torso, as the colors i wanted required that the rear two-thirds of the upper part were blue while the front third was white. Problem was that the front chest assembly was in cast as one whole piece, thus requiring masking of the white parts. So yeah, too excited to start work so the pics were forgotten, so here's a test fit of it instead. Tried applying the included dry-transfer decals but they're barely noticeable here.
Most of the project (the MS itself) is already done now, except for the weapons, shield and dragoon system backpack a.k.a the wing. I've got the rifles but the wings are being worked on separately. I left them with Trace-02 yesterday since i suck big time on masking. More updates soon.
"May those who accept their fate find happiness. May those who defy their fate find glory."
12-30-2010, 08:20 PM (This post was last modified: 01-20-2011, 10:41 AM by zero_kanipan.)
ok so i bought a bootleg strike freedom 1/144
heres the torso/chest part. screwed up the sticker (it was lopsided so i removed it) so either i leave it black or try and color it with poster paint XD
the stickers are annoying coz they're paper and tend to tear. the eyes got torn down the middle when i was trying to adjust it. i also lost the triangle piece for the forehead so i used some of the red stickers to compensate ^^U
managed to find the triangle piece. stopped assembly for today after putting the guns together.
i really need a file coz its pretty obvious where the gates were cut. not sure if the white thing is caused by inferior plastic or my blade not being sharp enough to cut the remaining gate/nub.
The whit stuff happens when the plastic is stretched. So yeah, it could be the blade, the plastic or both.
If you're gonna paint that, it's fine to have those since they'll be covered with paint anyways.
Invest on side cutters. They're a modeler's best friend. Cut with the wire cutters first, then trim with the side cutters and smooth it out with a 600/800cc sandpaper/nail file.
12-31-2010, 08:21 AM (This post was last modified: 01-20-2011, 10:40 AM by zero_kanipan.)
(12-31-2010, 08:04 AM)Serene Wrote: The whit stuff happens when the plastic is stretched. So yeah, it could be the blade, the plastic or both.
If you're gonna paint that, it's fine to have those since they'll be covered with paint anyways.
Invest on side cutters. They're a modeler's best friend. Cut with the wire cutters first, then trim with the side cutters and smooth it out with a 600/800cc sandpaper/nail file.
im not sure if im gonna go into model kits so much so im not sure if im gonna invest more money into it XD
pix after the jump
updates:
these suck. the hands barely grip the gun handle. theres no mechanism to lock em in place
did the arms tonight. carved too much while trying to remove remnants of a gate (see that gap in the right arm). thankfully that is the only accident i had today XD
nearly done:
waist, feet, and joints
the legs completed. huge ugly gaps due to the PC parts not fitting properly and/or poles not sinking fully in the holes ><
hip gun thing. this one went well thankfully
lower body completed
just missing the wings/funnels. those gaps really look nasty ~.~
hopefully i'll be done by tomorrow night
final update:
some of the funnel tips were already bent even before i cut them from the runners ~.~
funnel system assembled
yay its done! ^^ it also came with this basic stand. nifty
Tsuruya-chama giving the new addition a warm welcome XD
So.. Vea and I talked about making our first plamo together. May I please have some advice? For example, what grade we should get, as first timers, ideal price ranges, and places to get them?
01-07-2011, 07:32 AM (This post was last modified: 01-07-2011, 07:57 AM by Serene.)
(01-05-2011, 07:35 PM)Shintetsu Wrote: So.. Vea and I talked about making our first plamo together. May I please have some advice? For example, what grade we should get, as first timers, ideal price ranges, and places to get them?
(01-05-2011, 07:35 PM)Shintetsu Wrote: So.. Vea and I talked about making our first plamo together. May I please have some advice? For example, what grade we should get, as first timers, ideal price ranges, and places to get them?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated
dunno about model and grade, but for kits you can go to greattoysonline in shoppesville in greenhills. theres also a bunch of other shops around the area but that one has a massive amount of kits. even AC ones.
(01-05-2011, 07:35 PM)Shintetsu Wrote: So.. Vea and I talked about making our first plamo together. May I please have some advice? For example, what grade we should get, as first timers, ideal price ranges, and places to get them?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated
I recommend going for the 1/144 HG and HGUC lines or any of the larger 1/100 NG or HG kits. For a first kit, i'd say to go for something easy to snap together and around or just under php1000.
For now, i would advise to try staying away from kits that have lots of gimmicks, like extending cannons, folding wings, transformation sequences and other reasonably complex and involved stuff. Just the basic mecha kits will be fine for now. I would suggest these from the HGUC series for first-time builders:
Zaku-II (F2, FZ or C-type variants)
GM Type-C
RX-78-2
Dom Tropen
RX-0 Unicorn mode
Acguy
GM Command
Gelgoog Marine
RX-178 mk.II Titans
Gouf Custom
For the place to get them, stay away from the ones sold in department stores. Your nearest hobby shop should have them at much lower prices.
"May those who accept their fate find happiness. May those who defy their fate find glory."