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Not sure. So far I've only seen the Zoids kits getting bootlegs, not sure about ACs.
(07-23-2012, 03:15 PM)J.E_Magog Wrote: [ -> ]Not sure. So far I've only seen the Zoids kits getting bootlegs, not sure about ACs.

AC doesn't have a huge fanbase outside Japan. Not surprised of the not high demand. May mga Guundam kasi.
(07-23-2012, 03:30 PM)Serene Wrote: [ -> ]
(07-23-2012, 03:15 PM)J.E_Magog Wrote: [ -> ]Not sure. So far I've only seen the Zoids kits getting bootlegs, not sure about ACs.

AC doesn't have a huge fanbase outside Japan. Not surprised of the not high demand. May mga Gandamn kasi.

Fixed.

There is a large fanbase in Hong Kong and Korea though. Plus, i'm sure that there's also a few guys in Metro Manila who would really appreciate easily available recasts of the VI kits. Happy
Dear god...
Procast is actually more disappointing than Easycast. Just look at the micro bubbles on the surface. Those will be much harder to clean compared to filling a few large gaps. I've been waiting 1-3 hours for Procast to cure only get air bubbles on the surface. No good at all. [Image: resintest_10.jpg]


On the other hand, I was able to solve the air gap problem by making larger air vents. So I guess I'm back with Easycast. I just made these two a while ago.
[Image: resintest_11.jpg]
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That's spectacular, man. You planning on trying the recasting process with some of the larger units next?
Yeah maybe rifle sized ones, maybe GAST since it's a dual wield.
Really the most difficult part when recasting is embedding the original part in clay. It took me more than 3 hours with the shotgun, the handgun around 1.5.
Forgot to ask: is there any kind of lube or powder needed to release the part from the mold once it's done, or do you just pour the resin straight in?
I've been pouring the resin straight it. I believe I should've been using the mold release for the resin as well. I've only used the mold release when I made the silicone molds. The mold release I have is a spray, but I've read about people using vaseline as an alternative.
Thanks for the answers, man. I just might be able to put them to use someday. Happy
Good tip on pre shading without an airbrush. But it's a bit complicated.


But I doubt it would be worth doing on the hasegawa battroid I'm building. So I've been thinking of getting myself a cheap airbrush and compressor. I'd really love to put an end to using spray cans, since most of them end up in my lungs anyway. Spray cans is also 3-4 times more expensive than a small bottle of paint.

Co2 tank = compressor
Using this particular technique, i'm not sure if you'd get the same effect on a mecha kit with lots of flat areas. Tricks for painting minis usually don't translate particularly well when used on bigger stuff. I haven't tried anything like that myself though. Ermm

Hahaha, same thing here, i've been thinking about finally getting an airbrush and compressor for the past year or so. Apparently, there comes a point in every modeller's life that you feel that using spraycans just doesn't cut it anymore. LOL
iirc you also have a hasegawa fighter in your collection. Just wondering how you handled the painting process since I don't really have any experience with the ultra thin panel lines.

I just found a store here(via gundamaustralia forums) that sells a $80 compressor and $30 dual action airbrush. Not bad, considering the professional ones would easily cost 2-3 times that price.
This one?

[Image: Valkyrie01.jpg]

That VF-1S was built and painted way back in early 2004, when i knew next to nothing about proper techniques and was still winging it. I just used a can of white Pylox, some cheap paints from the hardware store around the block and the smallest-tipped technical pen i could find. The only reason it turned out halfway decent was because of the supplied decals, which took care of most of the details. I'm thinking of digging that VF out of the closet, stripping off the paint and starting all over. At this point in time, i'm pretty sure i could do a much better job.

That airbrush set seems like a pretty good bargain. I'd grab it in a heartbeat if i found it first. Big grin
I think the pen did a decent job of doing the panel lines. I can't imagine doing a panel wash on those because I could just end up smudging the paint against the base color.
I think for the super thin panel lines, you could probably use an Enamel wash technique.
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