The Raven Republic Forums

Quote:Most brake fluids used today are glycol-ether based, but mineral oil (Citroën liquide hydraulique minéral LHM) and silicone (DOT 5) based fluids are also available.

From what I've read, DOT 3 and DOT 4 are pretty effective, just avoid Dot 5 (silicone based).
I also tried soaking the parts for 2 and a half days and it didn't soften at all.

Some info on panel lines and simple weathering techniques.

http://ninfinger.org/models/rms_tips/rmsfaq.15.html

Sorry if this is a bit of a necro but it's a handy weathering technique:

Give the entire model a metallic basecoat and wait for it to dry.
On areas you're going to apply weathering, spray/paint a light application of an inbetween color between the metallic basecoat and the final color (about a 50/50 mix). wait to dry
Apply sand mixed with elmer's glue to areas where you want to be weathered.
Spray the desired model color over the sanded model.
it
Once dry, simply flake off the sanded areas. This creates the appearance of battle damage/paint flaking/etc. exposing the primer layer and the initial top coat of the model. While this technique is generally used for car and tank models, it winds up looking quite nice on mecha.

In RR, we are all Necromancers. The good thing is we only have one thread per topic. since we usually check what's available before making a new thread.

Back in the day I just dab in some gray acrylics for the peeling paint

(08-15-2011, 07:35 PM)McCale Wrote: [ -> ]Sorry if this is a bit of a necro but it's a handy weathering technique:

Give the entire model a metallic basecoat and wait for it to dry.
On areas you're going to apply weathering, spray/paint a light application of an inbetween color between the metallic basecoat and the final color (about a 50/50 mix). wait to dry
Apply sand mixed with elmer's glue to areas where you want to be weathered.
Spray the desired model color over the sanded model.
it
Once dry, simply flake off the sanded areas. This creates the appearance of battle damage/paint flaking/etc. exposing the primer layer and the initial top coat of the model. While this technique is generally used for car and tank models, it winds up looking quite nice on mecha.

I've heard of a similar weathering method, using grains of salt instead of sand. It's used more for rust effects and discolored metal.

(08-16-2011, 06:27 PM)J.E_Magog Wrote: [ -> ]Back in the day I just dab in some gray acrylics for the peeling paint

It's what i do even until now. I'm too much of a chicken to even try any other techniques.

(08-16-2011, 06:52 PM)Fox Wrote: [ -> ]

(08-15-2011, 07:35 PM)McCale Wrote: [ -> ]Sorry if this is a bit of a necro but it's a handy weathering technique:

Give the entire model a metallic basecoat and wait for it to dry.
On areas you're going to apply weathering, spray/paint a light application of an inbetween color between the metallic basecoat and the final color (about a 50/50 mix). wait to dry
Apply sand mixed with elmer's glue to areas where you want to be weathered.
Spray the desired model color over the sanded model.
it
Once dry, simply flake off the sanded areas. This creates the appearance of battle damage/paint flaking/etc. exposing the primer layer and the initial top coat of the model. While this technique is generally used for car and tank models, it winds up looking quite nice on mecha.

I've heard of a similar weathering method, using grains of salt instead of sand. It's used more for rust effects and discolored metal.

(08-16-2011, 06:27 PM)J.E_Magog Wrote: [ -> ]Back in the day I just dab in some gray acrylics for the peeling paint

It's what i do even until now. I'm too much of a chicken to even try any other techniques.

Yeah, I'm always open to new techniques but certain methods are just quick, dirty and efficient.

http://www.bosny.com/primer.html

They finally have something for plastic.

(09-24-2011, 07:45 PM)Serene Wrote: [ -> ]http://www.bosny.com/primer.html

They finally have something for plastic.

I dunno, man. Upon checking the instructions, it looks like you'll have a hard time working with this if you'll be using it on plastic models. If it's for projects with single, large objects, you'll be fine. But for projects with multiple small pieces, i dunno...

This calls for some experimentation! RR Bash Brothers, assemble!!!

(09-25-2011, 10:13 AM)Fox Wrote: [ -> ]

(09-24-2011, 07:45 PM)Serene Wrote: [ -> ]http://www.bosny.com/primer.html

They finally have something for plastic.

This calls for some experimentation! RR Bash Brothers, assemble!!!

KITBASH FRIENDS ASEEEMBOOOL!!!

Heatable and reusable plastic. I didn't know this thing exists until now. I feel like making moulds using this but I'm not sure how much detail it can hold.

Ahhh, Instant Mold/Oyumaru. I've been hanging out in some WH40k modelling forums lately and a lot of the guys there swear by that stuff for expanding their armies. The detail that you get on the duplicates seems to be decent enough.

The duplicate is on the left, the original is on the right. This is for a wargame mini that's just as small as a bottle cap so giant robot model kits should look pretty good.

pic taken from - http://chestofcolors.com/instant-mold-review-tutorial/

Best of all, it's reusable.

That's quite impressive. Maybe if the guy used liquid resin he could have gotten better results. Looks useful enough for one sided molds but I'm not sure if it's suitable for making two part molds. I'll try getting my hands on those in a few days.

Post results too when you're done. I really have to get my hands on some sticks of these one of these days.

Here's the only mold I was able to make. It's the middle of winter here it hardens quickly when I get it out of the hot water.


Recast parts.

Parts assembled

I also bumped into some problems mixing the resin. I wasn't able to pour the resin in small amounts because I forgot to purchase a syringe and I just ended up pouring it right out of the bottle, so there's plenty of wastage as you can see. The mixing time of 2 minutes was halved because it's curing too quickly. I also ended up with some rising air bubbles and I believe that was the result when I cut down the mixing time.