Current time: 06-16-2024, 03:57 AM
Hello
#1
LW BP fan ako, I don't really favor heavy weights mids are fine with me though but mainly blader style ko sana. The thing is, I'm new to the game, I played it before but only really lightly, only now do I actually understand the mechanics. Anyway, it's a bit tough starting out with LR. I can boost hop moderatly but I seriously need help in using OB properly, like when to use it. I use config A since it's easier for me but I really need help in OB and Blading. Yan talaga sana style ko... LW BP blader... And what do you think of gull-lotus-hazel?
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#2
Maganda kung gagamit ka ng mga low calorific heat na generator. Ayos na ang Lotus, pero baka magkulang ang energy.

Try mo Fudoh

Try this guide by Blues Mage too. (pero baka kailanganin mo nga lang ng kaunting modification kasi LR)

Oo nga pala, welcome to TRR ice! Smile

[quote]OB Whoring 101
A FAQ for the video game Armored Core: Nexus
Written by: Jonathan Walz AKA Blues Mage AKA Carbonlifeform

Table of Contents:
I. Intro
II. Common Uses
III. Part Overview
>>IIIa. OB Cores
>>IIIb. Generators
>>IIIc. Radiators
IV. Developing an OB/G/R combo
>>IVa. Factors for consideration
>>IVb. Sample BGR combos
V. Usage Tips
VI. Example Cores
VII. Acknowledgements and Thanks

Introduction:
This guide is meant as an aid to all those looking to get the best out of the Overboost ability in Armored Core: Nexus. Seeing as you're reading this, I will assume that I don't have to explain the Armored Core (AC) series to you.

Overboost (OB) has been a very popular feature in the AC games since it's introduction in AC2, but as we all know, Armored Core: Nexus (ACNX) has introduced many changes to the general game play of the AC series. One of the most drastic among these is the increased importance of heat. These new heat mechanics have contributed largely to a massive reduction in the popularity of OB. However, many players have found that, with a little work and specialization, OB is still a very useful ability.

This FAQ is my attempt to help players better understand the various uses of OB in ACN and present standard, useful strategies for OB users, specifically in the area of building.

Common Uses:
There are numerous reasons for wanting to implement OB. However, the
broadest, and most common categories that I can think of are range control, jousting, maneuvering, and the OB crouch.

Range Control: OBing for range control is fairly straightforward. You want to stay a certain distance away, and the occasional OB gives you the speed you need to remain within that range. Snipers or cores equipped purely for close quarters combat predominantly use OB in this style. Range control requires the least amount of specialization for OB; the generally infrequent use doesn't tax your heat and energy as much as other OB styles.

Maneuvering: In my opinion, the use of OB for maneuvering (frequent dodging and positioning, in my definition) is the usage that requires the most specialization. A good rate of energy refresh and a strategy for preventing potentially crippling heat are both very important.

Jousting: Jousting is more of a playing style than a purpose. In simple terms, Jousting generally involves rushing into super close range in order to hit your opponent with high power weaponry without giving them the opportunity to get out of the way. For some excellent information on this style you can check out Mechadon's Jousting FAQ.

The OB Crouch: Like jousting, the OB Crouch isn't really a purpose for OB. It's essentially more of a specifialized maneuver that a requires OB, but cores that make use of it tend to rely on it so I will briefly describe it here. The OB crouch is a technique that has been developed for the use of cannons with bipedal and hover cores. The steps involved go roughly like this:
Kneel with your cannon=> activate your OB=> fire cannon=> your OB carries you out of your crouching position.
Some steps may come in different orders depending on cannon ping time and personal preference.


Part Overview:
In this portion of the FAQ, I will briefly describe the pros and cons and what I feel to be the basic purpose of each of the OB cores and generators and the more useful radiators.

OB Cores:
The core you choose will obviously have the greatest impact on how your core handles in OB. Each core has vastly different characteristics, especially when compared to OB in the previous games. Here I will try to briefly describe the important traits of each OB core as well as their pros and cons

Rakan:
Pros- Excellent efficiency; Great stats; Low charge-up heat
Cons- Very high OB usage heat
Purpose- Good for cores needing long duration or low drain OB

Helios:
Pros- Powerful thrust; High heat resistance; Low discharge heat;
Cons- High usage drain; High equip drain; relatively poor stats
Purpose- Good for cores needing high powered OB with a higher CV generator

C840/UL:
Pros- Moderate OB power, usage drain, and usage heat; CAMS; Hangars
Cons- Highest charge-up heat in the game; doesn't excel in anything.
Purpose- Good choice for lights in need of lots of functions

Atlas:
Pros- Low charge-up heat, usage drain, and usage heat; Hangar function
Cons- OB power is somewhat lacking; mediocre stats
Purpose- Good choice for general-purpose use

C770/U:
Pros- Lowest OB drain and heat; CAMS; Hangars
Cons- Exceptionally low OB power
Purpose- Good for heavies and tanks that need a little added mobility

EOS:
Pros- Phenomenal OB power; Highest heat resistance in the game
Cons- Highest OB heat and drain in the game; Second highest OB charge-up heat.
Purpose- Good for when you need a rocket strapped to your back.

Generators:
Generator choice is very important when you're designing an OB core. The calorific value of your generator will have a major effect on heat build up and your Max Charge and Energy Output will determine how long and how frequently you can OB.

G78:
Pros- Very low CV; Low weight; Moderate Max Charge
Cons- Very low output
Purpose- Good for when you need a light weight generator with low CV and a largish max charge

Lotus:
Pros- Low CV; Very low weight; Huge red zone
Cons- Small Max Charge
Purpose- Good for when you need a light weight generator with low CV and moderate energy output

G84P:
Pros- Great Output
Cons- Tiny Red Zone; Fairly High Calorific Value
Purpose- Good for short, frequent OB use

G91:
Pros- Good balance of Output, Charge, and Calorific Value
Cons- Doesn't excel at anything
Purpose- Good for general-purpose use

Fudoh:
Pros- Large Max Charge; Moderate Output; Low Calorific Value
Cons- Very Heavy
Purpose- Good for just about anything if you can spare the weight and drain isn't too high

Magnolia:
Pros- Moderately high energy output; sizeable red zone
Cons- High CV
Purpose- Good for mid-heat OB cores

Kongoh:
Pros- Incredible energy output
Cons- Small max charge; High calorific value
Purpose- Good for when you want your energy back right away

Kujaku:
Pros- Great output and charge
Cons- Massive calorific value
Purpose- Good for when you need massive stores of energy and don't mind burning

Orchid:
Pros- Massive max charge; Moderate energy output
Cons- Very heavy
Purpose- Good for when you want super long duration OB's.

Radiators:
If you plan to OB at all, you will build up quite a bit of heat, thus radiator choice is very important. Your choice of radiator will have a large impact on the style of your OB use.

Linden:
Pros- Awesome forced cooling and energy consumption; low equip drain
Cons- Horrid standard cooling
Purpose- Good for times you know you'll burn no matter what and don't want it to hurt

AnandaTongueros- Good cooling; Low equip drain
Cons- Terrible forced cooling and energy consumption
Purpose- Good for cores where burning should be a rarity

R92:
Pros- Very high standard cooling; Low energy consumption
Cons- High equip drain, mediocre forced cooling
Purpose- Good for trying to prevent overheating but still being able to survive it

Ragora:
Pros- Good Cooling; Great Forced cooling;
Cons- Heavy; High energy consumption
Purpose- Good when you want both forced and normal cooling to be strong.

Furuna:
Pros- Unmatched normal cooling
Cons- Heavy; Crippling energy consumption and forced cooling
Purpose- Good for when you want to avoid overheating at all costs

Strategies for developing an OB/G/R combo:
I'd like to apologize in advance, as this section could become quite wordy. I just can't think of a good, straight-forward way of explaining some of the things I'm going to say.

Factors for Consideration:
There are many things that you need to keep in mind when devising an OB/G/R combo. How frequently do you want to use your OB? How good is your frame cooling? What normal boosters do you want to use? What's your drain level?

Possibly the most important things to consider are the following:
How do you want to cool your core?
Do you prefer longer or shorter duration OB?

Cooling Strategies
You never want to overheat in Nexus, so you obviously aren't going to create an OB/G/R combo that runs unnecessarily hot, but how you deal with heat as a whole is an important part of the building strategy.

In Nexus, two schools of cooling have evolved. One school focuses on standard cooling, looking to prevent overheating if at all possible. Cores focusing on standard cooling tend to equip either the R92 or Ragora radiators so as not to suffer too much when overheating does occur.

The other school of cooling that has evolved in Nexus has been dubbed "back-door" cooling. Cores emphasizing back-door cooling embrace overheating as an inevitable part of the Nexus gameplay environment. Almost without exception, such cores use the Linden radiator to minimize damage done by overheating. Many people utilizing back-door cooling tend to minimize frame tunes to cooling, but I tend to think this unwise. Frame cooling tune also benefit for forced cooling stat, and no matter how often you can overheat without it causing much damage, you're still better off overheating less.

The Role of Heat Resistance
The heat resistance stat is something that we really need to take a good look at. Some people like high heat resistance as it allows you more wiggle-room before you start overheating. Some people dislike it because you take longer to cool down when you overheat from a higher level, and thus lose more energy.

As a rule of thumb, lower heat resistance tends to work better with back-door cooling and higher tends to work better with standard cooling. This isn't always the case, though, so experiment for yourself and decide which one you prefer.

The Role of Calorific Value
Your generator's calorific value will have just as much, if not more, of an effect on your OB heat as your cooling. As a general rule of thumb, I like to use the boost heat formula devised by early importers. This theory basically states that each point of calorific value on your generator and boosters cancels out roughly 2 points of cooling. As an example, my core Frigid (posted below) has the Helios Core and Fudoh generator (7836 total calorific value). It achieves heatless OB with a cooling stat of somewhere right around 15650. As you can see, this cooling stat is just slightly less than double the combined calorific value of my OB and generator.

Note that the calorific value of your boosters affects the heat you take on while boosting while your OB charges, but not while you are actually Over Boosting.

OB Charge-Up:
The charging period before the Over Boost actually kicks in is possibly the most dangerous part of Over Boosting. As you probably know, this is because of the vastly accelerated rate at which you take on heat during this period of time. It is important to note that different cores take on heat at different rates during charge-up time before OB, but this rate is not at all related to the core's listed OB discharge heat. While we don't have any values for this hidden stat and we don't know how it works, in my testing I have found that the order of OB cores from coldest charge-up to hottest charge-up is as follows:
C770/U => Atlas => Rakan =>Helios =>EOS =>C840/UL

Keep this in mind in the next portion of the FAQ.

OB Duration and Frequency:
The length and rate at wish you intend to OB will be important in deciding many things.

If you prefer more frequent, shorter duration spurts, a low OB charge-up heat will be much more important than a low OB discharge heat and power may take priority over efficiency. This type of OB tends to work slightly better with back-door cooling

For longer duration OB use, a generator with a fairly large max charge, such as Fudoh or G91 will be important. You'll probably want a more efficient OB core and a strong standard cooling arrangement.

For infrequent OB use, you can be a bit less careful. You'll want an OB core that lends itself well to your boosters. If you're using Gull, you may want a stronger OB for those times when you just need to get away. If you're using B83TP, you'll probably want something that doesn't drain as much so that a short session of simultaneously using your OB and boosters doesn't leave your energy tank dry.

Sample Combos

Fudoh + Ragora + Pretty much anything-
This is a good stock generator and radiator combo. Fudoh's large tank, average energy output, and low calorific value make it well suited to OB use and Ragora's combination of excellent forced cooling and high standard cooling make heat easy to deal with.

G91 + R92 + C840/UL-
G91 provides a good combination of calorific value, energy output, and max charge. R92's high standard cooling keeps the UL's charge-up heat in check, and after that things are gravy with UL's excellent blend of boost and heat efficiency.

G84P+Ragora+Helios-
G84P provides an excellent refresh rate and fairly low calorific value to support Helios' high usage and equip drain and already excellent boost heat. Ragora keeps heat under control while quelling overheats without too much damage.

Magnolia+Ragora+Atlas-
Atlas' excellent boost and heat efficiency combined with Magnolia's solid energy output and sizeable red-zone allows for easy use.

Fudoh + Linden + Rakan-
This seemingly unorthodox combination has quickly become one of my favorites. Linden
[Image: nines.jpg]
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#3
First off all, welcome sa Republic.

A lightweight biped eh? And a blader at that... mukhang sanay na sanay ang mga Pinoy sa old school AC... yung MOA and below. Kaya ko nasabi yun kasi usong-uso noon ang blade bilang primary means of attack, kasi nga naman mga 2000-3000 AP ang natatanggal sa bawat slash, at may blade tracking pa. Ngayon kasi, iba na: wala nang blade tracking, at pinahina ng FROM ang attack power ng mga blades. Anyway, here's my advice:

1. Read Blues Mage's guide, LOL. Hindi kasi nabigyan ng FROM ng tamang diin kung gano kaimportante ang B(ooster)G(enerator)R(adiator) combo eh, pero actually, siya yung nagdidikta ng kayang gawing ng AC mo, movement-wise. Nacover naman niya ata lahat ng magagandang BGR combinations (Vulture2/G91/Ananda ang "standard" sa LR), pero maganda ring mag-experiment para makahanap ka ng isang combo kung saan ka OK. Ito ang ilan sa mga ginagamit ko:

B81/Kongoh/Ananda
Gull/Lotus/Ananda
Birdie2/Lotus/Ananda
Vulture2/G69/Hazel

Ang Gull/Lotus/Hazel kasi, medyo mahirap asahan. Mataas ang discharge heat ng Gull, baka hindi kayanin ng Hazel under OB conditions. If it works though, use it.

Ngayon kung mapapansin mo, Lotus talaga ang hari ng gens pagdating sa OB. Mabilis kasi ang refresh rate, kaya madali i-whore.

2. During OB, try not to boost too much. That means, kung gamit mo ang Type A (Analog yun di ba?), wag kang masyadong mag-L2 habang nasa overboost. Mainit na ang takbo mo eh, kapag nag-boost ka pa makikita mo magspispike yung heat. Kapag sanay ka na though, kaya mo nang i-control yan. Practice lang.

Yun lang muna. I'll edit this post later kapag may maisip akong iba pa.

Oo nga pala,
Quote:welcome to TRR ice!
Mas maganda kung tawag natin RP (Raven RePublic) di ba? Tunog Republic of the Philippines na rin, LOL. XD
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#4
Ayus... di na ako mahihirapan na i-cover yan [GRB Combinations]... Kasi meron na... Hehe... Welsome to the Republic, Ice...
'Signatures are overrated.'
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#5
<!--QuoteBegin-Grimoire+Aug 28 2006, 08:14 AM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Grimoire @ Aug 28 2006, 08:14 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteEBegin--> Oo nga pala,
Quote:welcome to TRR ice!
Mas maganda kung tawag natin RP (Raven RePublic) di ba? Tunog Republic of the Philippines na rin, LOL. XD [/quote:458182d9c2]
Pwede, pero baka malito yung iba eh :ph34r: But ok, RP then Smile)

EDIT: Actually, RR is what we should use after all, since yun na ang nakasanayan sabihin ng mga tao, even of other people who aren't registered on these boards. Tongue
-Grim


BTW found this from gamefaqs, another method for using KUJAKU

Quote:VULTURE2 (tune 5 acceleration, 5 heat maybe) and KUJAKU should make a good combination for an aerial AC... as long as you're not ending up with an energy surplus worse than you'd have with FUDOH just trying to keep it cool.

Also has anyone tried the ICURUS yet? The drain while OBing is a bit upsetting, but the power and heat is pretty much well balanced, the stats are also good.

Any good combo on it?
[Image: nines.jpg]
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#6
Anyways... totell everyone the truth, I don't OB... Kung gusto ko ng movement speed, Pegasus ang gamit ko. At kahapon lang, natutunan ko na gumamit ng Magnolia, R92, TP+Peg Combination... Ayus nga eh, natitira ko pa yung Shade ko ^^.
'Signatures are overrated.'
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#7
Thanks sa replies... as of now, gamit ko BGR V2-Lotus-Ragora/Hazel... Bawal pa sakin ananda dahil di ko pa natapos... also for MI members from ACO, are the XS legs and 8052 legs LW legs or Underweight legs??
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#8
You're better off sticking with the Hazel on that one, if your AC is cool enough (at ang ibig sabihin ko dun malamig, hindi astig LOL :tongueSmile... Ragora's too heavy and drainy.

Now about the legs... technically, there are no "underweight legs." I can understand what you mean by that question though. Am I right in assuming that you meant to ask if underweighting would work with these legs? For the surest answer, try underequipping your AC to reach a total weight of around 500 units less than the total leg capacity. Then see if there is a substantial (like 20-30+) increase in speed. If there is, you're now officially underweighted, and have all the positives and negatives to it. So far, the legs I'm sure you can UW on are: Dingo2, Cougar2, FA. Haven't really tried or paid attention to the others. Tongue

To answer your original question... the XS legs are lightweights, while the S2 legs are mids. A distinguishing mark of the difference between the two, aside from the obvious weight factor, is their drain. Generally mids have less than 2000 drain, while lights have over this number.
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#9
kasi, gusto ko sana sumali sa metal impulse clan sa ACO... sabi dun post your LW design but no underweighting... so pde ba ung XS or 80S2?
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#10
Ah, I see. Stick with the XS ones. I'm assuming that you're playing LR... if so, when you go to the legs section in building your AC, press L2 from the very first leg part. That switches by categories. The first leg belongs to the midweight section, then by pressing L2, you've moved to the lighweight legs. Pressing L2 once more moves you to the heavies, and so on, and so forth. RJs and quads have their own mids, lights and heavies as well, although I'm not so sure about the ordering in these two leg types.
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#11
I too am new to the raven republic But I'm no Amateur at the game. B) Are you in las pinas or close to las pinas? are you close to SouthMall? we could meet there so we can check out our skills. you give the time.

P.S. Welcome to the Republic, Fellow RAVEN.
The Strong shall live and the weak shall suffer.I'm too weak to know I'll win but too strong to know I'll lose.
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#12
I've never said it properly, so welcome to both Ice89 and robert2 to RR, we hope you enjoy your stay Wink

rober2: Does SM Southmall have any PS2 rental stores?
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#13
Welcome welcome!

Note: Don't bother with the ICURUS OB core

Rick: From what I know, SM Southmall does have at least one PS2 rental shop.

Ice: You can also try reading the OB FAQ written by Maitreya in our FAQ section.
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#14
Quote:LW BP fan ako, I don't really favor heavy weights mids are fine with me though but mainly blader style ko sana.

HOLY FAT SUMO SHENNENIGANS BATMAN! <a href='http://ravenrepublic.net/index.php?showtopic=251' target='_blank'>A heavy that can blade.</a> Big grin

400+ kph once the rest of the equipment is dropped.

Quote: At kahapon lang, natutunan ko na gumamit ng Magnolia, R92, TP+Peg Combination... Ayus nga eh, natitira ko pa yung Shade ko

with the tp on, the pegasus is pointless. Tongue
FRONT MISSION FOR LIFE.<br><img src='http://tenmou.net/cgi/contribution/img/30.gif' border='0' alt='user posted image' /><br><i>RATATATATATATATATATATATA!!!</i>
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#15
<!--QuoteBegin-wanzerfreak+Nov 27 2006, 09:36 PM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (wanzerfreak @ Nov 27 2006, 09:36 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteEBegin--> HOLY FAT SUMO SHENNENIGANS BATMAN! <a href='http://ravenrepublic.net/index.php?showtopic=251' target='_blank'>A heavy that can blade.</a> Big grin

400+ kph once the rest of the equipment is dropped. [/quote:96e51bcb2a]
Thanks to underweighted brokenness. Smile)
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