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Serene · (This post was last modified: 11-11-2009, 11:35 AM by Serene.)

Well, tips and tricks go here from me a starting kit basher and others who already know what they're doing.

Materials I use:
- Styrene Sheets [1mm] - for scratch building. 55pesos per sheet at Joli's at UST.
- Prepaid Cards [.25mm] - for adding a little thickness to scratchbuilt parts. As people who play online games. Scrape off printed sides before using.
- Superglue [Crown Bond] - Doesn't set as fast as mighty bond. Good for gaps and scratch building. Wear goggles.
- Box Cutters [Maped]
- Ink casing [MyGel 0.5] - Combine with empty panda ink casings for larger hydraulic tubes.

Techniques:
- Paint scraping - Use a blunt or slighty blunt box cutter and place ofer area at a 90degree angle. The sharper the blade, the least the force needed.

TBC

Fox · 11-06-2009, 01:54 PM

Sorry, won't be able to give any scratchbuilding tips as my skill level really doesn't venture that high. However, if it's for improvising stuff and general tips, i think i've got a few to share.

* Water-transfer decal sheets tend to lose their adhesive properties if they've been exposed to too much air after awhile. Make them sticky once again by adding a few drops of white glue to the water before applying the decals.

* Powdered cray-pas or brushes rubbed on pencils can be applied to the edges of models to simulate weathering.

* The steel tops from used ballpoint pens like Panda can be used as boosters and verniers.

* Cloth or handkerchiefs soaked with water works as a substitute if you don't have a filter or breath mask when painting.

* Sawdust or even plastic dust from sprues can be turned into putty for getting rid of seamlines. Mix with glue afterwards to a gooey consistency and apply to seams. Sand after it's dry.

* Lighter fluid can be used as a thinner for enamels if no turpentine is available. Alternatively, acetone can be used with lacquers and rubbing alcohol works with acrylics.

* These solvents can also be used to clean up brushes after painting.

* This is a no-brainer but if you don't want to shell out for a hobby-grade modeller's knife, cutters from the nearest school supply can be your best friend.

* Wires from junked computer parts can be used when installing LEDs in models.

* Paint or nail polish can be a substitute for glue, especially for clear part like canopies and visors, as there will be no fogging unlike when using cyanoacrylate glues like Mighty Bond.

* Bicycle brake cables can be used to simulate hydraulic cables. Just make sure that you're getting them from junked bikes and remove the rubber covering before painting it. Old guitar strings work as well.

* Some glues are too strong to be used for styrene sheets but a little known solvent that works well is chloroform - A.K.A the stuff used to kidnap people.

* Another use for white glues like Elmer's is for re-tightening joints that have loosened up over the years. Just add a couple drops in the polycaps or joint-holes and let dry for a bit.

* Nail files can be used for evening out surfaces if sandpaper is unavailable.

* Sprues have a wide variety of uses ranging from scratchbuilding, part-holders during the painting process, paint-stirrers to extra beam sabers from clear sprues.

* 0.2 and 0.3 technical pens are a cheaper alternative to Gundam markers for panel lines.

* Lollipop sticks and the inner ink-holding tubes of ballpoint pens can be used for scratchbuilding gun barrels, pistons and other stuff. Balloon sticks can be used for cannons.

* Old floppy disks and junked CPU cases can be used as bases for hangar dioramas.

* Cheap paints from hardware stores are a good alternative to hobby-grade paints if you're on a budget. Just be sure to thin them before applying to your kits as the unthinned paint is strong enough to eat through plastic.

J.E_Magog · 11-08-2009, 07:20 PM

-Wet sanding= less dust
-Undiluted India ink for panel lining. It's not superior to the other panel lining techniques out there, but it is a lot easier to clean up if you make a mess.

A pin vise is very essential for scratch building.

Couldn't say much even after a few years of modeling.

Trace-02 · 11-10-2009, 04:07 AM

*Hair doctors (rounded tip steel brush combs) are a good source for parts if bike brake cables are not available

*The plastic tubes from cotton buds can also be used for hydraulics in mechanical joints (Works well with hair doctor metal pegs, ans sometimes comes in different thicknesses. Can be a substitute for lollipop sticks. :3)

*Colored pet bottles can be a good source for clear, colored plastic which can be used for details such as optics, lights, etc.

*Emery rods (used for polishing fingernails, The pink and white soft stick) can be used as a substitute for fine grade sandpaper. The pink is for fine sanding, the white part is for superfine sanding. The gray is good for polishing.

*Santa hats (which can be bought at divisoria for about P20 each) are good sources for red colored LEDs.

*Craft braided twine is a good substitute for cables. Similar to the mesh pipes used on the knee joints of MG GM Type C models.

I'll try to post a bit more later. ^__^v

Ar D'Leon · 07-24-2010, 03:50 PM

Hey gues, sorry to derail the topic a bit. But I just wanted to ask, where is a good place to find some hobby knives? Haven't found a place that sells em eh XP.

Lord_Leperman · (This post was last modified: 07-24-2010, 04:27 PM by Lord_Leperman.)

Doesn't Lil's sell hobby knives anymore? If you want, you can chack out any of their stores. :p

I use a nail clipper and sometimes a sharp cutter as a substitute for a hobby knife, but just be careful about holding it properly as they don't give you the firm grip and ergonomics that hobby knives give you.

Ar D'Leon · 07-24-2010, 04:39 PM

ohhh I see I see :p...but where is Lil's exactly LOL

? Yeah I normally use a cutter but it does strain the fingers so I am looking for a hobby knife Tongue

. And how do you use a nail clipper as a replacement exactly O_O LOL

, I am curious as to how that works Big grin

?

Lord_Leperman · 07-24-2010, 07:09 PM

You're from Pasig, so the closest branch I can think of is the one in SM Megamall. It's located on the basement level of Building A just in front of Comic Quest. Should be pretty easy to find :p.

For nail clippers, I use the edge to cut parts from the trees, then just sandpaper the remaining plastic bits. That or a pair of diagonal pliers, but I wouldn't recommend those for parts that need precision cutting. A hobby knife is recommended for clean results :p.

Ar D'Leon · 07-24-2010, 07:38 PM

OHHHH THAT store LOL

, thats were I got my most recent markers XD. Thanks man Big grin

Serene · (This post was last modified: 08-13-2010, 06:44 AM by Serene.)

Flat head screw drivers + Grinding stone [used to sharpen knives] = CHISELS.

They're actually sharp enough to cut through Kotobukiya plastic.

Can also be used to punch holes. I think I better find a whole set.

Add-On:
On TEMPORARY weathering and battle damage, Silver Poster paint seems to work I just tried it out.

J.E_Magog · 09-11-2010, 04:17 PM

The AC modeler from nicovideo finally uploaded some of his stuff in Youtube. Try checking out his vids.

Fox · 09-24-2010, 11:51 PM

Does anyone have any suggestions on what other liquids to use when stripping paint from Kotobukiya plastic? Turpentine with a little water seems to work just fine with Bandai-made stuff but soaking AC kits in that solution takes forever to soften enamels and lacquers. I tried leaving some painted parts from the UL core in that mix and the primer/paint layers were still tough to take off even after half a day of being immersed. I don't know know if i can use other fluids for fear of melting the plastic.

Serene · 09-26-2010, 10:14 AM

Wear a dust mask and strip away. Based on experience, when the paint softens, it at least makes it easier to scrape off without affecting the plastic too much.

Fox · (This post was last modified: 09-26-2010, 03:40 PM by Fox.)

I tried doing it your way, with cutters and blades. It works fine straight surfaces and flat areas but the curved and round sections are giving me a tough time. What i really need is a solvent that'll soften the paint and not eat away at the bare plastic.

EDIT - Nevermind, after utilizing a little bit of google-fu, it seems that the answer to my problem has been sitting in the bodega all this time. Hello Valvoline!

NiX · 09-27-2010, 01:10 PM

I saw in JE's blog that soaking the parts in brake fluid worked out for him.

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