The Raven Republic Forums

Well, surface detail is indeed better. It's just that the sword was what really caught my attention.

I bet that comment is what makes Mr. MG blue Frame 2nd L attractive to the ladies too.

Well, the kit does seem pretty well-equipped.

Damn, just imagine how strong its propulsion is with boosters activated when the astray thrusts it into the enemy....


*uuurrrrrnf*

more PG 00 Raiser pics

Looks beautiful but that's way, way too many parts for my taste. That's gonna take me weeks to finish the entire kit.

I don't know what to say but...

CHA-CHING!

Unfortunate smelting accident, perhaps?

Itsh looking toit, toit like uh toiger!

Did Amuro just discover how to activate the RX-78-2's Hyper Mode?

00 seven swords
very nice articulation.
more pics here and here

Does anyone know where to find the Aaliyah kit? I'm contemplating on getting it.

Actually I have a question regarding modelling and I'm at a loss as to where to post it. I'll ask here just in case but I'm ok moving it elsewher if needed. The question actually has to do with painting. I recently(last sunday) bough the CREST frame model kit from lil hobbies. I want to paint it but I want to ask if:

1)Unpainted, does it look decent (like gundam model kits?)
2)[Should I decide to paint it]Any tips for a beginner model painter?

Answers:
1. Yes it looks decent, WAY better than HG Gundam models. Unless you want to mix and match it with other AC kits which will make it look bisaya if the kits' colors don't match.
2. Acrylic paint: go for the bigger bottles if you want to hand paint. They're 13ml more than the 60 peso ones and they only cost 100 pesos. Don't touch it often though. Acrylics tend to peel off on corners and edges... For spray paints, RR people use pylox. Ask Fox on how to spray paint properly.

Hahaha, so you got the U3 Cascade Range kit, the U2 Phoenix kit, the U/L featherweight kit or the U3 Dual Face kit eh?

If you do decide to paint your AC kit, i strongly advise practicing painting on a couple of cheaper, smaller 1/144 kits before you go for the AC. It'll give you a feel for how to control your sprays. If you don't wanna be bothered with buying testing kits, it's no biggie, as AC models are rather easy to paint. I generally use both enamels and spraypaints when doing kits, spraypaints for the large areas and enamels for detailing. I'm not really all that good in painting kits but i can give a few pointers.

If you're gonna be using store-bought aerosol lacquers, please stay away from brands like Now, RJ, Bosny or any of the other cheap looking ones, as they are strong smelling, too glossy, run out of compressed air too easily or don't coat all that well. Pylox coats really good and has a flat, even surface after spraying.

It's not really necessary but it's a good idea to prime your kits first before spraying them with the primary colors. The reason for this is to allow the paint a better surface to cling on and to bring out the colors better. If you don't have a can of primer on hand, you can simply substitute basic colors for it, gray paint for priming flat and dark colors or white paint for priming bright colors

Always spray in multiple layers, typically three to four coats. Spray well away from the pieces, around fifteen-twenty inches away. Keep the can moving from side to side to allow the paint to be distributed evenly. A good way to get good paint coverage is to lay some adhesive tape of a flat surface like the inside of a box or a section of illustration board and stick the pieces to it. After spraying one side, rotate and spray the other sides until all four sides have been sprayed. That should be enough for one coating.

First application should have a fine, powdery appearance to it, like you just dusted your kit. Let the first coat dry for around fifteen-thirty minutes before going for the second one. The trick is to gradually build up the colors between coats so that each piece of the model is fully covered and you're satisfied with the evenness of the surface.

Parts that require multiple colors need to be masked before applying the second color. Masking tape is ideal for this. The trick is to apply it to some smooth surface first around a couple of time before sticking it to the part. This ensures that the tack is sufficiently weakened so that it won't tear off whatever paint is under it.

That's all i can think of at the moment. Have fun building that AC model of yours.

Detail overload! The time it takes to do those panel lines and add the decals must eat people's schedules for breakfast.